Foodie Tales Part 1

Over a month ago, I re-visited Bombay to bond with family and friends. An endless flow of alcohol and shameless exhibition of gluttony is always on the cards whenever I visit the city. And since I’m on the subject, I guess it’s worth sharing a few restaurant stories of the city.

China Garden@Kemps Corner and CR2: As a kid, the day we (family included) landed in Bombay, it was a given that dinner would be at Nelson Wang’s iconic restaurant at Om Chambers. And if the day happened to be a Saturday or Friday, my uncle would reserve the table at least in a week in advance. Once, we had to wait for nearly 45 minutes in the adjacent Piano Bar till a vacant table was found. Apparently, crowds used to gather outside the restaurant over the weekend to catch a glimpse of their favourite movie stars. All of them would end up dining at CG or downing a few drinks after their film premieres. CG was known (and still is) for its eefoo wontons, cream corn, sapo vegetables and chicken manchurian. It moved to the crassy CR2 mall I Worli for a brief period but townies preferred the newer – and more authentic – Chinese eateries which had mushroomed. Now it’s returned back to Om Chambers in a newer avatar – CG83 – but it’s not even a shadow of what it used to be. Except for their signature dishes, everything else is oily, spicy and plain boring. I’d rather eat home-cooked Chinese food than go to CG83. It’ll be a cheaper, healthier option.

Thai Pavilion@ Taj President: When someone tells you that a chicken appetiser is served on a long toothpick-like stick with peanut-butter sauce, you start getting second thoughts about the place. But once I tasted Chicken Satay, I fell in love with it and with Thai Pavilion for dishing out some fabulous Thai cuisine. Be it Tom Yum soup, Penang Curry or Masaman Curry, this South Bombay restaurant soon became quite a rage. But unfortunately Thai Pavilion too went downhill for a few years. The food became horrible, menus remained unchanged, service was bad and loyal clientele preferred India Jones and others to Ananda Solomon’s eatery. In fact, there were times when Taj President offered free pick-up services to those who wanted to lunch at Thai Pavilion. Inevitably, good sense prevailed and the restaurant was closed for renovation. It reopened last year and to say that it has outdone itself would be an understatement. Solomon’s given it a contemporary twist so now the menu’s got flambé prawns with a hint of orange and the Thai curry is devoid of spices. Yet, it all tastes so good. The décor is friendlier and the restaurant’s more spacious than before. Let’s not discuss prices though. The appetite gets ruined.

Bagdadi’s@ Colaba (Behind the Taj Mahal Hotel): Now before I’m labelled as an elitist snob, I’d like to write that my most memorable meals have been at this non-descript eatery. After drinking ourselves silly at Leopold’s or Sports Bar, my friends and I digged into the most amazing Mutton/Beef Biryani, Chicken Masala, and Chicken Fry which is available under 50 bucks. That we blew up most of the cash on booze is another matter, but fact remains that Bagdadi’s dishes are much better than it’s overhyped neighbour, Bade Miyan. Another factor which sets Bagdadi’s apart is its egalitarian nature: be it a sozzled rich brat or a disgruntled taxi driver, all of them descend here for a quick bite. Signs such as “food will not be served to overdrunken person” and friendly waiters (one of them remembered that I hadn’t visited since the 26/11 attacks) are added features. So if you’re short on cash but looking for a delicious meal, Bagdadi’s is your destination – provided your not overdrunken!

Trishna@ Fort and JVPD: If there’s one restaurant in Bombay which is jam-packed at 10:45 PM on a weeknight, it has to be Trishna. Famous for its butter garlic crabs, fish hyderabadi, dal hyderabadi and Lonely Planeters, this South Bombay eatery has started spreading its wings to the ‘burbs. Not only is the JVPD outlet more spacious, it serves more dishes than the one in Fort. The Chettinad Crab was a wonderful discovery – especially since it was de-shelled and mildly spicy. But the real revelation was the pomfret tikka: soft, chunky pieces grilled to perfection. A welcome change from the hyderabadi fish I’m so used to eating. Add to that Trishna’s signature Dal Hyderabadi, a few neer dosas and malai kulfi, and you have the perfect meal!

Stranger to History: A Son's Journey Through Islamic Lands by Aatish Taseer

Aatish Taseer’s debut book is perhaps the most difficult to describe; to call it an autobiography would be an understatement as he bravely tackles Islam’s complex facets. One may call it a travelogue but his own life story – born to an Indian mother and an estranged Pakistani father – is such that it cannot be ignored.

Born to veteran Indian journalist Tavleen Singh and the Lahore based businessman-turned-politician Salman Taseer, Aatish shared a complicated relationship with his father. Aatish never met Taseer until he turned 21. He tried to establish contact with him through letters and phone calls but in vain; Taseer senior simply did not want to talk to him. And when he did, Salman Taseer wrote a stinging letter to his son criticising him for lacking ‘even the superficial knowledge of Pakistani ethos.’

In a bid to understand his father’s religion Aatish undertakes a journey through the Middle East: the genesis of Islam and intersperses it with his own life story. As Aatish travels through Syria, Turkey, Saudi Arabia, Iran and Pakistan he encounters several worlds – and ‘world systems’ – sub-cultures and people in his effort to understand Islam. Fatih Carsamba in Turkey teems with Muslims who feel uncomfortable with the country’s secularism. Damascus erupts like a volcano after cartoons of Prophet Mohammed are published in a Danish newspaper. At Mecca, Aatish worries about the Lord Shiva tattoo on his shoulder and a kada, while in Iran, he’s surprised to find members of the Hare Krishna sect.

Attending political sermons in Syria and interrogations in Tehran, this poignantly written journey – using travel as its narrative – tool raises uncomfortable yet important questions. Can the State use religion as a weapon to probe into people’s lives? Can Islam co-exist with other ‘world systems’? Will it ever be able to understand the concept of freedom of speech? And, most importantly, will Muslims themselves – Wahhabis and Sufis – be able to accept each other’s identities?

And then, of course, is Aatish’s own life story.

Born at a time when both countries of his parentage were going through tumultuous times, Aatish discovers his Muslim identity at a tender age – thanks to his cousin. Urinating in his aunt’s lawn, the cousin screams Aatish ka susu nanga hai; referring to the missing foreskin. On another instance, Aatish, aged 17, tries to contact his father from boarding school. An argumentative discussion with his peer-counsellor – moving yet disturbing - precedes the phone call with Aatish debating whether to make the call or not. His trip to Pakistan – the first to meet his father – in 2002 starts on a cautious note. “Just remember, he may let you down” warned his mother before Aatish embarked on his journey. And that’s exactly what had happened. Upon reaching Pakistan, Aatish called his father requesting to meet him. Salman Taseer’s response was short and curt. So curt that during his second trip to the country, Aatish chose to land in Karachi, instead of Lahore; this time, he was not prepared to meet his father.

Like the father-son relationship, Stranger to History is a complicated and troubling novel. Yes, the writing is vivid and engaging but the subject is such that one may feel drained out after reading the first few chapters. Nevertheless, it is an important book; one that seeks to tackle the complexities of an often misunderstood religion and region. But if you’re one of those who enjoys reading juicy bits about a love affair, then I suggest you don’t buy this book as you’ll be highly disappointed. It is strictly meant for those who are seriously interested in an individual’s quest to understand his religion and his personal life story provides contextual reference.

Overall, this much-awaited release makes for a disturbing yet compelling read. A debut which will be remembered for a long time

(A shorter version of this review can be read in this week's BusinessWorld magazine)